Sunday, April 6, 2014

Couture Techniques on V1237



 I wanted a simple sheath to wear under the first French jacket that I made, and I was lucky enough to score the last of this beautiful Spring Tweed from Roz at Sew Much Fabric.  I'd been wanting to try the dress from Vogue 1237 and it turned out to be the perfect marriage of fabric and pattern.
 
To compliment the construction of my jacket, I used couture techniques learned from Susan Khalje's Craftsy class. This is the first garment I've made using underlining and what a difference it makes. The tweed I was working with frayed easily and really needed the additional body of the underlining. I used silk organza to underline and it not only adds body, it keeps the fashion fabric from stretching out of shape and also minimizes wrinkling.
 
I first made a muslin without seam allowances and traced all seam lines and pattern markings using my giant tracing paper. Then the seam lines are thread traced by machine:




The muslin then becomes my pattern and again I use it on my carbon to trace markings on to the organza underlining:


It's then used as the pattern to cut my fashion fabric. From this point forward the underlining and fashion fabric are treated as one. Here is a photo showing the underlining prior to the insertion of the lining:



At this point all seams are catch stitched to the organza being careful not the catch the fashion fabric in those stitches. I've done the left side in a darker thread so it can be seen more easily:



I lined this dress with a cream silk charmeuse. Like everyone says, it does tend to slip and slide while you're working with. The powers that be always recommend using a walking foot. I have the Bernina walking foot and I am convinced I must have gotten a lemon. It grabs, bunches and basically just makes a mess of things. Knowing my charmeuse would shift I tried this alternating pinning technique and it was miraculous! Absolutely no shifting:


And here's the yummy inside:



This is a great basic sheath pattern and I see making this one over and over. I love the neckline, both front and back:


 
 
And I especially love it with my French jacket!




Try this pattern, it's great. And thanks for stopping by!

11 comments:

  1. Wowza...will you look at that fit?! All your hard work was worth it on this beauty. What a couture outfit you now have when you wear it with your French jacket Oo la la.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Julie! You were my cheering section to get this one finished so I can do some "fluff" sewing!

      Delete
  2. I love this look! I have the fabric for a French jacket and an extra 2 or 3 yards for something to wear under it. I was thinking a skirt, but I think you convinced me that I NEED a sheath dress. I also use that alternating pin technique. After I keep the pinning on the side of the stitch line after I hand baste. I have a Viking and the walking foot. I feel like it bunches fabric too.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Annette! I think the sheath is a nice alternative to the matching skirt. You'll probably have enough extra to make both. This dress only took 1.25 yards.

      Delete
  3. Oooh, I bet this is yummy to wear!! You did a beautiful job on both the dress and the jacket. I've never seen seen that pinning technique before.

    By the way, I followed the link from PR to your blog but it was a link to the preview version of your post and I couldn't leave a comment until I deleted the preview portion off the URL. You might want to fix the link in the PR review.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Shams! And thanks also for bringing the blog address to my attention, too!

      Delete
  4. I know you are loving your first couture sheath. The couture dresses hang better, wear better and just look better. Marvelous job, Dorcas!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Sarah! You've already had two weeks with Susan so I feel like I am way behind. I cheated and bought a few RTW items so I feel like I had to disqualify myself from your FB Fast page!

      Delete
  5. Man, you're doing a good job learning couture on your own!!! Couture sewing can be so addictive. I love that the shoulders on this pattern are fairly narrow. I had not noticed this before. You will enter the room with all eyes on you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Roz! Of course, the fabric made it! This pattern is super cute and it would look outstanding on you!

      Delete
  6. Love fabric, patterns and you in all these couture! Fabulous!

    ReplyDelete